Crying in one’s beer is a decidedly American and largely country-western trope, a sad one at that, but as Hispanic Heritage Month kicked off on Sept. 15 (until Oct. 15), timed almost perfectly with Mexican Independence Day (Sept. 16), Wendy Lopez was feeling emotional in an altogether different way, struggling to find the right words to communicate the joy inherent in sharing her culture with guests at Reyes Mezcaleria, where she is both chef and partner.
“We want to show people the nuance of Mexican food and its stories,” says Lopez, who was born in Michoacán. “The grandmothers and their cooking, just like Italian food, or Spanish food. Our lineage, our food, runs deep.”
So deep, in fact, that Lopez herself has yet to taste it all. But in eight years open, she believes that she and her family-like staff at Reyes have helped raise awareness about how much variety is inherent in Mexico’s culinary compendium. And celebrate it.
And what helps a celebration along more than beer?
Now available at both Reyes and Orlando’s Tactical Brewing, Mi Llorona, a 5.5% ABV milk stout with uniquely Mexican properties, marks both these formal holidays but most importantly, pairs beautifully with Reyes’ lamb birria — or just about any other beef or pork dish on the menu.
Ancho peppers, guajillo chilies, hibiscus and sour orange make unique love with the stout foundation, something Tactical chief operations officer and head brewer Kreistopher Holland and his team found intriguing the first time around, when a far heavier version (10% ABV), brewed in 2021, took home the Bronze Medal at the New York International Beer Competition.
“It sounded really interesting,” says Holland. “Definitely something we wouldn’t have considered on our end. It was really cool to lean on some of Chef Wendy’s more heritage-based memories and use less traditional ingredients that fewer people are familiar with. We’re always ready to roll with new things to make something happen. That it was personal made it that much cooler.”
From left, Reyes Mezcaleria chef/partner Wendy Lopez; Tactical Brewing owner Kreistopher Holland and Good Salt Restaurants beverage director Lorena Castro hold Mi Llorona beers and tacos. The limited-run milk stout is available at both venues for at least the next month. (Joe Burbank/Orlando Sentinel)
Lopez echoes the sentiments in reverse. During her time running the kitchen at The Osprey in Baldwin Park, the team at Tactical were literally her neighbors.
“They’re bold,” she says, noting that both she and Lorena Castro, Good Salt’s beverage director, who is also of Mexican descent, worked alongside the brewers while staying in their own lanes.
Carnitas, among other pork and beef dishes, make an ideal pairing for Mi Llorona milk stout, a Mex-inspired brew featuring notes of citrus, hibiscus and chilies. (Joe Burbank/Orlando Sentinel)
“They took us out of our comfort zone, but we trusted them to do what they do.”
The result? A Mexican-inspired beer that’s different from what most people think.
Reyes Mezcaleria chef/partner Wendy Lopez totes a pour of Mi Llorona. The release, timed neatly with Mexican Independence Day and Hispanic Heritage Month, features flavors similar to a cantarito cocktail. (Joe Burbank/Orlando Sentinel)
“Just like Reyes, we wanted to be a little more complex,” she explains. “Just like Reyes, it’s a little outside the box. Everyone’s got the Modelos and the Tecates and the lagers, this is different.”
The story behind it, too, varies, depending on where in Mexico you go.
La Llorona (The Weeping Woman) is a cautionary tale, a legendary ghost with deep roots in Mexican folklore.
“She’s a woman, crying for her lost children,” Lopez explains. In many versions, it was she who drowned them.
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“It’s a story parents tell when you’re a kid, so that you come inside and don’t stay out late or after dark,” she says. “Like, ‘if you stay out, you’re going to hear her screaming.’ A story that’s meant to keep your kids from running around.
“Every family has their own interpretation based on how much they want to terrify their children,” she laughs.
But the warmer side is just that: at home, there’s warmth, food, drink, love. So, come home.
During this time of year, she points out, as Day of the Dead approaches, it’s natural to think about one’s ancestors.
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“I was born in Mexico,” she says, voice cracking. “It’s in my heart all the time. I cherish it. It’s not something I learned at 17 when I began cooking in other kitchens, or at 14 when I was cooking at home. It’s something I was born with. And with my grandfather and grandmother so involved in our cooking, with our family, when I share the food and drink here at Reyes, it’s like I’m sharing my family.”
And during Hispanic Heritage Month, she says, that’s largely the intent.
“It’s shining a light on all kinds of Hispanics from all over the world. We want to show you our culture and invite you into our home.”
And in this case, for a beer.
Find me on Facebook, TikTok, Twitter or Instagram @amydroo or on the OSFoodie Instagram account @orlando.foodie. Email: amthompson@orlandosentinel.com, For more foodie fun, join the Let’s Eat, Orlando Facebook group.
If you go
Mi Llorona is available at Reyes Mezcaleria (821 N. Orange Ave. in Orlando; reyesmex.com) for at least the next month. The same goes at Tactical Brewing (4882 New Broad St. in Orlando; tacticalbeer.com), where you can sip on draught or grab a four-pack of beautifully illustrated cans to enjoy at home ($15).
