The Three Pigs fried rice at Yao’s (15 Alafaya Woods Blvd. in Oviedo; 321-765-4801; yaosorl.com), says sous chef Joseph Ulto, is greater than the sum of its parts.
“Each ingredient, on its own, is nothing remarkable. However, bringing these pieces together under intense heat creates something so dynamic to light up your taste buds, yet gently wraps around you like a hug from an old friend. Food has that ability to immediately connect with people.”
Right now, the world could use more hugs, if you ask me. But in lieu of that, a big bowl of fried rice, which celebrates its national holiday on Saturday (Sept. 20), could serve as a delicious, carb-laden stand-in.
I buy my mom Chinese takeout all the time, but she never wants the rice, which is fine by me, because it sits in my fridge, awaiting leftovers — which could be anything from chili-crisp roasted beets and cauliflower to marshmallowy Patagonian scallops to Spam — and a few scant minutes in a hot pan to turn them into something magical. Perhaps with a runny fried egg on top.
Yao’s version, with fresh corn, Chinese sausage, bacon and housemade char siu (I might debate Ulto on whether that should count as ‘unremarkable’), creates the magic that’s made it a favorite with regulars at this Oviedo restaurant.
“Everyone always likes to talk about their favorite spots, oftentimes reminiscent of their childhood,” says Ulto. “It’s that memory we’re competing with.”
So, when a guest tells a manager or owner that it’s the best they’ve had since childhood, or “since I left New York,” Ulto says, “that’s what makes it most special, and a better compliment to us as chefs than anything.”
Where else might you want to get “basic” with fried rice that’s not all that basic, and yet is? Read on for some starchy-sensational options.
Dressed up at home: Plated at home, the black truffle beef fried rice from Orlando’s Hunan Taste restaurant is ready for its close-up. (Amy Drew Thompson/Orlando Sentinel)
Hunan Taste
Upon hearing this latest editorial undertaking, a friend mentioned the black truffle beef fried rice at this Chinatown Plaza favorite, one that’s made appearances on my Best Chinese picks for the Orlando Sentinel Foodie Awards in the past, and one it had been far too long since I’d visited, so I dropped by for a quick sampling.
Treat your “Chinese stomach” at Hunan Taste | Review
I was not sorry.
Here, tender beef and rice feel almost meltaway with the addition of sweet and earthy truffle oil in just the right amount. (I know some folks disagree, but to me, there is such a thing as too much of this largely good thing). This one is craveworthy, and will make my leftovers, and thusly me, very, very happy when the time comes
Hunan Taste: 5148 W. Colonial Drive in Orlando, 407-930-3188; hunantastefl.com
Though many come to Taste of Chengdu for that mouth-numbing mala, not everything on the menu will set your world on fire. The green tea bacon fried rice is mild, gentle and lovely. (Amy Drew Thompson/Orlando Sentinel)
Taste of Chengdu
Another classic Orlando favorite I’d not visited in some time, this story was the perfect excuse for a pop in at the original West Colonial Drive location, where subtle green tea and a pop of chewy bacon serve as a mild, comforting contrast to dishes like the green peppercorn fish filets or mixed dry hot pot (both stellar). It’s also a nice go-to for friends who like their Chinese food less incendiary, so you can get your ma-la on.
Taste of Chengdu: 4856 New Broad St.in Orlando, 407-286-4850 and 2030 W. Colonial Drive in Orlando, 407-839-1983; tasteofchengduorlando.com
I went to Timheri, a West Indian/Chinese spot on W. Colonial Drive, with plans to grab the roast duck fried rice. Alas, no duck that day. The pepper lamb version, however, proved more than a consolation prize. Try it with the hot sauce for extra tangy fire. (Amy Drew Thompson/Orlando Sentinel)
Timehri
West Indian meets Chinese at Timehri, and though I’d come here hoping to snag a box of their roast duck fried rice, which I dig, there was no duck to be had. These are the circumstances of happy accidents, for instead, I absconded with a hefty sampling of the pepper lamb fried rice instead. This is one for the saucy among you; it’s lamb and veggies bathed in both sweet and sticky, which makes a phenomenal complement to the hot sauce that comes alongside. Fiery! Leave it out if it’s not your thing, but try it first. What a combo.
Timehri: 7371 W. Colonial Drive in Orlando, 407-291-2047; timehri.co/home
The crab fried rice at Tori Tori is among some of the Mills 50 hot spot’s most popular dishes, cooked in a blazing hot wok along with dashi, fresh garlic, garlic confit, and a generous portion of blue crab. (Courtesy Tori Tori)
Tori Tori
This glitzy Mills 50 izakaya is far different from some of the humbler West Colonial haunts on my list and the crab fried rice, too, but it makes sense, considering the decades of their crab fried rice, something chef/owner Sean “Sonny” Nguyen calls “a simple yet elegant take on a classic.”
At its heart, he notes, “it’s built on quality ingredients … aged jasmine rice, wok-tossed with sweet, blue crab meat, fresh scallions and savory garlic confit…. All of it cooked in a blazing-hot wok, which gives the rice that signature ‘wok hei’ smoky flavor.”
Tori Tori’s marketing director, Mabel Salazar, brings it full circle.
“Fried rice is something that can be for any time of day,” she says. “It’s also something easy to make using leftovers from the fridge. It’s a dish that can be as simple or as complex as you want it to be, and it truly represents the heart of Asian comfort food.
Tori Tori: 720 N. Mills Ave. in Orlando, toritoripub.com
Want to reach out? Find me on Facebook, Twitter or Instagram @amydroo or on the OSFoodie Instagram account @orlando.foodie. Email: amthompson@orlandosentinel.com. For more fun, join the Let’s Eat, Orlando Facebook group.
