I’m probably the last person on Earth who hasn’t tried Catrin Cantina in Newport News. OK, I’m exaggerating.
The Tex-Mex restaurant opened in July last year on Jefferson Avenue near Denbigh Boulevard. I visited recently in celebration of National Hispanic Heritage Month, happening now through Oct. 15. It recognizes the histories, cultures and contributions of those who came from Spain, Mexico, the Caribbean, and Central and South America.
Catrin offers the usual fare, such as burritos, fajitas and nachos. A few vegetarian entrees are also available. And yes, it serves the legendary Hampton Roads white sauce.
What sets this spot apart from other Mexican restaurants is its presentation, making the dining experience fun and celebratory. Some of the drinks even come in skull glasses, a nod to Dia de los Muertos — Day of the Dead.
Martin Cisneros, who owns Catrin with his wife, Terri, said the decor also makes this place a little unique.
Flickering flame lights in the dining room, powered by battery, caught my attention, as did the wrought iron chandelier and metal window coverings. Chocolate wood tables and high-back chairs gave me a modern medieval vibe.
The asada quesadilla at Catrin Cantina. (Kendall Warner/The Virginian-Pilot)
I sat at a booth and ordered. Minutes later, two folded asada quesadillas arrived, dangling in slings clipped to a branded sign atop a wooden platform. The golden tortillas with steak peeking out the sides looked appetizing. I bit into one, and beef juices spilled onto my plate. Seasoned meat, cheese and grilled onion delivered on taste and my hungry self was glad to have picked a winner.
The mojarra (tilapia) was another great choice. A whole, deep-fried fish came hanging face down on a skewer hooked from another metal and wooden display. I loved the contrast between the crunchy exterior and delicate interior. And trust me: Squeeze lime juice on top before eating. It was one of the best tilapias I’ve had.
The dish came with charro beans and rice plus guacamole on a bed of lettuce. The first two were OK, but the fresh dip was a hit. The same side dishes came with the next meal, too.
The chicken Catrin Pinchos, almost too good-looking to eat, at Catrin Cantina in Newport News. (Kendall Warner/The Virginian-Pilot)
The chicken pinchos (skewers) hung on three hooks from a wooden contraption as an orange flame burned in the background behind a metal grate. My first nibble from the skewer was the potato, which was undercooked for my liking. Chunks of chicken pressed between sliced onions and bell peppers came next. They were charred — which I didn’t mind — in a few spots from grilling, but the poultry maintained its tenderness. I had many enjoyable bites.
Catrin Cantina is one of 15 restaurants participating in Newport News’ Hispanic Heritage Month Restaurant Week, Sept. 19-30 — a great time to visit and explore other eateries.
Rekaya Gibson, 757-295-8809, rekaya.gibson@virginiamedia.com
If you go
Where: 12838 Jefferson Ave., Newport News
Hours: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Monday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday, 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday
Prices: $12.99 lunch menu, $14.99 dinner combos, $14.99 to $30.99 specialties
Details: catrincantina.com, 757-527-2588
https://www.dailypress.com/2025/09/16/review-catrin-cantina-newport-news/
