Wine Time: Giving thanks for wine

For the family member deemed the wine guru, no time of year causes as much wine-fretting as Thanksgiving. So many people, so many tastes to appeal to without putting one’s reputation at risk.

I am confident that among the following there is something to appeal to any wine-inclined table companion at the annual feast, whether old-style or unconventional. But dishes can also be suggested for ordinary days as well.

Wente Morning Fog Chardonnay 2023 (Central Coast, California). Gold-pineapple color leads to full-medium body, yet with sleek mouthfeel. Flavor features green apple but also brushes up against a minty sensation, resulting in a very fresh savor. That aspect keeps the vanilla/oak influence quite discreet. It combines well with grilled salmon and creamy dijon/chive sauce. (Harris Teeter, sale price $10.99/reg. price $18.99)

J. Lohr Bay Mist White Riesling 2024 (Arroyo Seco, Monterey, California). This Riesling is lightly lemon-yellow in color and at the variety’s border between off-dry and semi-dry. In line with its initial fruity savor of ripe white stone fruits, body is medium (as Rieslings go), but it glides into an alluring stony finish. With an eye to its several flavor affinities, keep in mind Viennese Szegediner Gulasch with rinsed kraut and sour cream — just be sure not to singe the paprika. (Williamsburg Pottery, $13.98)

Benton Hills Cabernet Sauvignon 2022 (Columbia Valley, Washington). Elegant in all aspects, from bright ruby red color to light-ish medium body and silky texture. Understated flavor veers toward plum and dried fruits such as cherries and cranberries. But there is also a touch of smokiness (as in black cardamom), which segues to a nice earthy quality in the finish. A good opportunity for grilled or pan-fried steak with a red wine/butter/shallot sauce. (Fresh Market, $14.99)

Yealands Sauvignon Blanc 2023 (Marlborough, New Zealand). A rather special sauv blanc, beginning with a silvery sheen that adds pique to its very light lemon-yellow color. And while the variety’s grassy tendency is present, it is restrained by a tendency toward ripe tropical fruits such as pineapple and kiwi. That tendency also adds to an impression of round mouthfeel and light-medium body. Even so, acidity comes to the forefront for a crisp finish. Consider it for a buttery fish piccata with capers. (Food Lion, $17)

Wölffer Estate Cabernet Franc 2023 (Long Island, NY). Deep ruby in color, this cab franc tends toward garnet. Though not notably weighty, rich mouth aroma and the prevalence of dried fruits such as figs and flue-cured tobacco in flavor can leave an impression of full body; however, aeration and temperature are factors.  While easily drinkable now, its underlying nerve promises years of development. Braised short ribs over polenta or mashed potatoes will assure satisfaction. (Trader Joe’s, $18.99)

Faustino V Rioja Tinto Reserva 2018 (Rioja, Spain). Finely graduated carmine red color out to the rim rightly suggests maturity in this more than 90% tempranillo reserva. A tactile manifestation of it is silky texture that nicely rounds out full-medium body — give it time to open up. A meld of blackberry, bakery spices and tobacco define flavor. Several more years of development can be expected. For max enjoyment now, a good weekday choice is pork chops grilled or baked with herbs, but eschew tomato. (Publix, $20.99)

Miles Lambert is a Williamsburg resident.

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